A printable version of the checks that actually matter, in the order to do them. Working through this before you commit prevents almost every common failure point in the first year.
Quick answer: Russian blue adoption checklist — here’s the short version. Our Russian Blue kittens are $2,500 with a $250 deposit — see kittens for sale now or read the buying steps below.

Part 1: Your household (do this first)
- Everyone in the household agrees. A cat acquired against someone’s wishes is a cat at risk of being rehomed.
- Allergy check. Spend time with a Russian Blue before committing if anyone is uncertain. The honest allergy answer.
- Longevity of your situation. A Russian Blue lives fifteen years or more. Consider moves, children, career changes and relationships. Lifespan.
- Who is responsible. Named person for feeding, litter, vet visits and costs. “We will all share it” usually means one person does.
- Children’s ages and behaviour. Can they be taught not to grab or chase? Russian Blues and children.
- Existing pets. Species, age, temperament, vaccination and desexing status. Plan the introduction before you bring the cat home. Introducing to a dog.
- Working hours and time alone. Can a Russian Blue be left alone?
- Whether to get one cat or two. Should you get two kittens?
Part 2: Housing
- If renting, get written permission for a cat. Not verbal – written. This is among the most common causes of unplanned rehoming in Australia.
- Check the lease for pet bonds or conditions.
- Decide indoor-only or indoor with supervised outdoor access. Indoor cats live substantially longer. Indoor versus outdoor.
- If allowing outdoor access, plan containment. Cat enclosure, cat-proof fencing, or a secured courtyard.
- Identify escape routes. Doors, windows, screens, balcony gaps, garage, subfloor access. Keeping your cat safe indoors.
- Check for toxic plants in the house and garden – lilies are fatally toxic to cats, and are common in Australian gardens and florist bouquets.
- Identify where the litter trays will go – quiet, accessible, not next to food, not in a high-traffic area.
Part 3: Budget
- Purchase or adoption fee. $150 to $600 adopting; $1,500 to $2,500 for a pedigree kitten. Prices by state.
- First-year total. Roughly $4,000 to $5,500 for a kitten, $1,400 to $2,300 for an adult. Full breakdown.
- Ongoing monthly. $90 to $170. Monthly costs.
- Insurance decision made. Is it worth it?
- Emergency fund. A few hundred dollars accessible, or insurance in place, for the unexpected vet bill.
- Transport costs if buying interstate. $250 to $750. Buying from another state.
Part 4: Equipment to buy before the cat arrives
- Rigid travel crate, appropriately sized. Crate guide.
- Litter trays – one per cat plus one. Litter guide.
- Cat litter, and ideally the same brand the cat is used to.
- Food and water bowls, shallow and wide to avoid whisker fatigue. Ceramic or stainless steel over plastic.
- Food – the same as the breeder or rescue is feeding, at least initially.
- Scratching post, tall and sturdy enough not to topple. What is worth buying.
- Bed or box, plus a hiding place.
- Toys – wand toys, small chase toys, and something to chew.
- Nail clippers and a brush. Grooming tools.
- Cat-safe cleaning products for accidents – enzyme cleaner, not ammonia-based.
- Window perch or cat tree for vertical space.
The complete list with what is genuinely necessary and what is marketing is in the starter kit guide and the supplies checklist.
Part 5: Veterinary arrangements
- Choose a veterinary practice before you collect, and register.
- Book the first appointment for within the first week – and within your health guarantee window if you are buying a kitten. Guarantees explained.
- Find your nearest after-hours or emergency clinic and save the number now.
- Confirm the vaccination schedule. Australian schedule.
- Set up parasite prevention. Worming and flea control.
- Confirm desexing status and book if not done. What to know.
- Plan microchip transfer. How to transfer ownership.
- Check council cat registration requirements in your area – separate from microchipping in many councils.
Part 6: Verifying the source (if buying)
- Registry confirmed. Which feline body, and breeder number. What registration means.
- Visit or live video call completed. What a good visit looks like.
- Mother seen.
- Photos reverse-image searched. Listing red flags.
- Contract read in advance. What to look for.
- Health guarantee understood – the examination window, hereditary cover, remedy.
- Pedigree papers, vet records and microchip number promised in writing. What is included.
- Kitten at least twelve weeks old. Why the age matters.
- Price consistent with the market. Why cheap kittens cost more.
- Payment to the breeder directly, never a third party. Scam guide.
- Questions asked. The 15 questions.
Part 7: First-week preparation
- One room set up with litter, food, water, bed, hiding place, scratching post.
- House kitten-proofed. Cords, plants, small ingestible objects, chemicals, open windows, gaps behind appliances. What to buy and move.
- Time off work for the first few days if at all possible.
- No visitors booked for at least the first week.
- Introduction plan written for other pets – scent first, then visual, then supervised.
- Familiar scent arranged – ask the breeder or rescue for a cloth carrying the mother or current home’s smell.
- Collection or delivery logistics confirmed. Collection day and delivery options.
- A plan for the first night. Expect some vocalising. The first week.
The three checks that catch most problems
If you only do three things from this list:
- Written landlord permission if you rent. The most common avoidable cause of rehoming.
- Live video call or visit showing the mother. Eliminates almost all fraud and most volume sellers.
- Vet booked inside the guarantee window. Protects both the cat and your claim.
Use this list
Print it or keep it open. Working through it in order takes an afternoon and removes most of the things that go wrong in the first year.
Quick answers
What is the most important thing to sort before adopting a cat?
Written landlord permission if you rent, followed by agreement from everyone in the household and a realistic first-year budget.
What should I buy before my kitten arrives?
A rigid travel crate, litter trays and litter, bowls, the same food it is currently eating, a sturdy scratching post, a bed, and basic grooming tools.
When should I book the first vet appointment?
Before collection day, for a slot inside your health guarantee window – commonly 48 to 72 hours after collection.
How long should I prepare before bringing a cat home?
One to two weeks is comfortable. Buy the equipment, kitten-proof, arrange the vet and set up the initial room.
Related reading
Russian Blue Adoption Checklist: FAQs
How much does it cost to act on this?
When readers ask about russian blue adoption checklist, the budget question comes first: our Russian Blue kittens are $2,500 with a $250 deposit, vet-checked and fully documented — see current Russian Blue kittens for sale.
How fast should I decide?
Good breeders never pressure you, but russian blue adoption checklist moves quickly because litters are small. If a kitten suits you, a $250 deposit secures it while you prepare.
What should I do next about russian blue adoption checklist?
Read our 99 kitten-buying FAQs, then enquire — we reply within 24 hours and will happily talk through russian blue adoption checklist for your situation.
Independent guidance: The RSPCA’s guide to choosing a pet responsibly before you commit to any kitten.
Ready to meet your kitten?
Our Russian Blue kittens are raised in our family home, vet-checked, vaccinated, microchipped, wormed and socialised before they travel. We reserve with a $250 deposit and deliver Australia-wide.