Needing to rehome a cat is more common than the internet suggests, and it is not a moral failure. Moves, allergies, new babies, relationship changes, illness and financial change all happen over a fifteen-year lifespan. What matters is doing it in a way that lands the cat safely.
Quick answer: Rehoming a russian blue — here’s the short version. Looking for a kitten now? Browse our Russian Blue kittens for sale — home-raised and health-guaranteed.
Step 1: Contact the breeder first
If you bought from a registered breeder, your contract almost certainly requires you to offer the cat back before rehoming anywhere else. Do that, even if you think they will say no, and even if the purchase was years ago.
- Ethical breeders plan for this. Many keep space for returns.
- The breeder knows the cat’s background, temperament and health history better than anyone.
- They have a network of screened prospective owners.
- It is the outcome the contract was written to produce, and it is the safest one for the cat.
- It also frees you from any contractual breach.
If your breeder has closed, cannot be contacted, or declines, keep a written record of the attempt. You may need it, and it is the right thing to have done.
Step 2: Consider whether rehoming is actually necessary
Some reasons cats get rehomed are solvable, and it is worth a genuine attempt before proceeding:
| Problem | Often solvable by |
|---|---|
| Litter issues around the house | More trays, different litter, different locations, vet check for urinary disease. Litter training |
| Scratching furniture | Appropriate posts placed correctly, plus deterrents on furniture. How to stop scratching |
| Aggression or fear | Veterinary pain check first, then gradual desensitisation. Behaviour problems |
| Allergy in the household | Air filtration, keeping the cat out of bedrooms, washing regimes, medical advice. The allergy question |
| Conflict with another pet | Proper reintroduction, scent swapping, separate resources, sometimes a vet behaviour referral. Introductions |
| Cost | Lower-cost food options, insurance review, council and charity assistance programs. Monthly costs |
| Landlord objection | Written pet requests, pet references, a bond offer. Sometimes successful; sometimes not |
| Excessive night activity or vocalisation | Play before bed, feeding schedule changes, environmental enrichment. Exercise needs |
If you have tried and it has not worked, proceed without guilt. A cat placed well is better off than a cat kept in a situation where it is miserable and unwanted.
Step 3: Prepare the cat’s records
Assemble before you start looking:
- Veterinary records – vaccinations, desexing, treatments, any diagnosed conditions, current medications
- Microchip number and confirmation that registration is current
- Pedigree certificate, if you have one
- Purchase contract, which may specify the rehome obligation
- A written description of temperament, routine, diet, litter preference, what the cat is frightened of, and what it loves
- Good, clear, natural-light photographs
Full and honest records dramatically improve the outcome. Concealing a known problem leads to a second rehome, which is much worse for the cat.
Step 4: Choose the route
| Route | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| Return to breeder | Safest; known background; screened homes | Not always possible |
| Rescue organisation with foster care | Screening handled for you; foster assessment of temperament; support | Intake may be full; surrender fee often applies |
| Private rehome to someone you know | You know the home; least disruptive for the cat | No independent screening; relationship risk if it goes wrong |
| Private rehome via advert | You control the screening; no fee to an organisation | Highest risk; requires real diligence; attracts some bad actors |
| Surrender to a shelter | Last resort when nothing else is available | Stressful for the cat; outcome uncertain; may involve a waitlist |
A rescue organisation with foster care is generally the best option after the breeder, because foster carers can describe the cat accurately to a matched adopter – which is what actually produces a permanent placement.
Step 5: Screen properly if rehoming privately
If you rehome yourself, you are doing the breeder’s job. Take it seriously:
- Require an application. Household composition, children and ages, other pets, renting or owned and whether the lease permits cats, indoor or outdoor, working hours, previous cats and what happened to them, vet details.
- Verify the vet. Ask for their veterinary practice and call it. Does the person have a history of veterinary care for animals?
- Check the lease. If they rent, ask to see written permission for pets. This is the most common cause of failed placements.
- Visit the home. Or at minimum, a video call showing where the cat will live.
- Charge a rehome fee. $100 to $300. A fee is not profiting from the cat – it filters out impulse takers, people looking for free animals, and some bad actors specifically. Free cats are disproportionately used for harmful purposes.
- Use a rehome agreement. Covering the fee, the cat’s known history, an agreement that the cat will be returned to you or the breeder if the placement fails, and contact details.
- Confirm desexing and microchip. Both should be done, and the microchip transferred to the new owner. How to transfer.
- Follow up. A check-in at one week, one month and three months. Willingness to accept a return if it is not working.
Red flags in prospective adopters
- No questions about the cat at all
- Unwilling to give a vet reference or an address
- Pressuring to collect immediately, without a conversation
- Wanting a cat “for the kids” with no adult taking responsibility
- Refusing a rehome fee and insisting it be free
- Multiple animals acquired recently with no veterinary involvement
- Vague or inconsistent answers about housing
- Asking for a young, desexed cat with no interest in its history – a pattern associated with some harmful uses
Helping the cat through the transition
- Send familiar items – the bed, a blanket, the toys the cat actually uses
- Send the current food, enough for at least a week
- Write down the routine: feeding times, quantities, litter type, where the cat sleeps
- Tell the new owner to expect hiding for several days to two weeks, and to keep the cat to one room initially
- Advise no introductions to other pets for at least a week. How to introduce.
- Offer to be contactable for questions
Russian Blues in particular bond strongly and can find a rehoming harder than a more easygoing cat. A quiet, patient transition matters more with this breed than most. Temperament explains why.
What not to do
- Do not give the cat away free to a stranger without screening
- Do not leave the cat with someone casually and assume it is fine
- Do not abandon. Cats abandoned outdoors face starvation, predation, traffic and, in Australia, baiting programs. It is also an offence.
- Do not conceal known health or behaviour problems – they will surface and the cat will be rehomed again
- Do not sell the cat for a profit. A rehome fee covers costs and filters; a high price attracts the wrong buyers
The order that produces the best outcome
Breeder first. Rescue with foster care second. A known, screened private home third. Shelter surrender last, and only when nothing else is genuinely available.
Quick answers
Do I have to give my Russian Blue back to the breeder?
If your contract has a return clause, yes – you are obliged to offer the cat back first. Most ethical breeder contracts include this clause and it is the safest outcome for the cat.
Should I charge a rehome fee?
Yes, $100 to $300. A fee filters out impulse takers and bad actors. Free cats are disproportionately misused.
Is it cruel to rehome a cat?
Rehoming a cat well is not cruel. Keeping a cat in a household where it is unwanted, stressed or unsafe is worse. What matters is the quality of the placement.
How long does a rehomed Russian Blue take to settle?
Usually one to four weeks. Expect hiding initially. Keep the cat to one quiet room, maintain its routine and diet, and introduce other pets slowly.
Related reading
Rehoming a Russian Blue: FAQs
How much does it cost to act on this?
When readers ask about rehoming a russian blue, the budget question comes first: our Russian Blue kittens are $2,500 with a $250 deposit, vet-checked and fully documented — see current Russian Blue kittens for sale.
Where can I find a Russian Blue to adopt?
For rehoming a russian blue, try breed rescues, shelters and cattery adult placements — see where to look in Australia.
What should I do next about rehoming a russian blue?
Read our 99 kitten-buying FAQs, then enquire — we reply within 24 hours and will happily talk through rehoming a russian blue for your situation.
Independent guidance: The RSPCA can help with adoption and rehoming options across Australia.
Ready to meet your kitten?
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