There is no Russian Blue-specific diet. What there is: a medium-sized, active, generally robust cat that holds condition easily, is prone to overfeeding indoors, and benefits from more moisture than an all-dry diet provides. That narrows the choices usefully.
Quick answer: What to feed a russian blue — here’s the short version. Get your home ready before collection day — then choose your Russian Blue kitten with confidence.
The practical default: mixed wet and dry
For most Australian households this is the best balance:
- Wet food once or twice daily provides moisture – cats have a low thirst drive, descended from arid-climate ancestors, and get most water from food. Higher moisture intake supports urinary health, which matters because urinary disease is among the most common and most dangerous feline presentations.
- Dry food available in measured amounts provides convenience, dental mechanical action, and calorie density.
- Measured, not free-fed. An indoor Russian Blue with unlimited dry food will become overweight. Healthy weight.
How much to feed a kitten covers portions through growth, and the Russian Blue feeding guide runs from birth to adulthood.
The feeding options compared
| Option | Monthly cost (AU) | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Premium dry only | $40 – $70 | Convenient, cheap, some dental benefit | Low moisture; overfeeding easy; carbohydrate content higher than ideal |
| Wet only | $90 – $180 | High moisture, high protein, palatable | Expensive; no mechanical dental action; spoils quickly |
| Mixed wet and dry | $60 – $120 | Balance of moisture, cost and convenience | Requires measuring both |
| Raw (commercial) | $150 – $300 | High protein, high moisture, low carbohydrate | Expensive; requires freezer space and strict hygiene |
| Raw (home prepared) | $100 – $200 | Control over ingredients | High risk of nutritional imbalance without veterinary nutritionist formulation |
| Veterinary prescription diet | $100 – $200 | Formulated for specific conditions | Only indicated where a condition exists; expensive |
How to read a label properly
Marketing dominates cat food packaging. Ignore the front and read the panel:
- “Complete” versus “complementary”. This is the most important word on the pack. A complete food can be fed as the sole diet. A complementary food cannot – feeding only complementary food causes serious nutritional deficiency. Many attractive-looking tins are complementary.
- Named animal protein first. “Chicken” or “chicken meal” as the first ingredient, not “meat and animal derivatives” or a grain. Named sources are more accountable.
- Protein percentage. For an adult cat, look for at least 30% protein on a dry matter basis in dry food, and around 9 to 12% in wet food (which is equivalent once moisture is removed).
- Taurine. Essential for cats, who cannot synthesise enough. It should be listed or the food should be labelled complete. Taurine deficiency causes blindness and heart failure.
- Moisture content. Wet food is typically 75 to 80% water. Comparing wet and dry on the packet percentages without adjusting for moisture is meaningless.
- Carbohydrate content. Cats are obligate carnivores with limited carbohydrate need. Lower is generally better; dry food is inherently higher.
- AAFCO or equivalent statement. Indicates the food has been formulated to meet recognised nutritional standards.
- Feeding guide as a starting point, then adjust to your individual cat’s body condition.
Best kitten food in Australia goes through label reading in more depth for the kitten stage.
Raw feeding: the honest position
Raw diets are popular and are genuinely high in protein and moisture with low carbohydrate. They also carry real obligations:
- Nutritional balance is the main risk. Feeding raw meat alone is seriously deficient – notably in calcium, taurine and various micronutrients. Use a commercial complete raw product, or work with a veterinary nutritionist if preparing at home.
- Bacterial risk. Salmonella, Campylobacter, Listeria and E. coli on raw meat. Risk to the cat is debated; risk to humans handling it, and to immunocompromised household members, children and the elderly, is well documented.
- Hygiene discipline required. Separate preparation surfaces, immediate cleaning, careful storage and thawing, and prompt disposal of uneaten food.
- Bone risk. Cooked bones are dangerous and must never be fed. Raw bones carry their own risks including obstruction and dental fracture.
- Cost and freezer space.
If you are considering raw, discuss it with your veterinarian first, choose a complete commercial product, and be realistic about whether you will maintain the hygiene discipline for fifteen years.
Russian Blue specific considerations
- Weight management. This breed holds condition well and indoor cats gain easily. Measure meals and weigh your cat monthly. Healthy weight and exercise needs.
- Urinary health. Maximise moisture intake – wet food, multiple water sources, and a water fountain if your cat prefers running water. Urinary blockage in male cats is a life-threatening emergency.
- Dental health. Dry food gives some mechanical action but is not a substitute for dental care. Dental care at home.
- Coat quality. Adequate omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids support the dense double coat and reduce excessive shedding. Grooming.
- Sensitive stomachs. Some individuals do poorly on high-fat or rich diets. Transition slowly and note what works.
- Senior years. Kidney function declines with age; moisture and moderated phosphorus become more relevant. Senior cat care.
Transitioning diets without upsetting the stomach
The single most common cause of diarrhoea in a newly arrived kitten is an abrupt food change. Over seven to ten days:
- Days 1 – 3: 75% old, 25% new
- Days 4 – 6: 50 / 50
- Days 7 – 9: 25% old, 75% new
- Day 10: 100% new
Ask the breeder or rescue what the cat is currently eating and buy some of it before collection. If diarrhoea develops, slow the transition or revert. What to do if your kitten is unwell covers when it is more than a diet change.
What not to feed
- Onion, garlic, chives, leeks – cause oxidative damage to red blood cells
- Chocolate and caffeine – methylxanthines, toxic
- Grapes and raisins – associated with kidney injury
- Alcohol – dangerous in tiny quantities
- Xylitol – artificial sweetener, toxic
- Cooked bones – splinter and cause obstruction or perforation
- Milk – most cats are lactose intolerant; causes diarrhoea
- Dog food – nutritionally inadequate for cats, notably in taurine
- Excessive tuna – not a complete diet, and high mercury content
- Bread dough – expands and produces alcohol in the stomach
Keep lilies out of the house entirely – all parts are fatally toxic to cats, and they are extremely common in Australian gardens and florist bouquets. Kitten-proofing: what to buy and move covers the plant list.
The practical answer
A complete premium diet, fed as measured meals with wet food at least once daily for moisture, adjusted to maintain lean body condition. No breed-specific product required. Budget $45 to $120 a month.
Quick answers
Do Russian Blues need special food?
No. A quality complete diet for their life stage suits them. They benefit from adequate moisture and careful portion control because indoor cats of this breed gain weight easily.
Should I feed wet or dry food?
Mixed is the practical default – wet once or twice daily for moisture and urinary health, plus measured dry. Wet-only is better nutritionally but costs roughly double.
Is raw feeding good for Russian Blues?
It can be, if you use a nutritionally complete commercial product and maintain strict hygiene. Raw meat alone is seriously deficient, and handling carries bacterial risk for the household.
How much does it cost to feed a Russian Blue in Australia?
Roughly $45 to $120 a month depending on wet versus dry ratio and brand, or $600 to $1,200 a year. See monthly running costs.
Related reading
What to Feed a Russian Blue: FAQs
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What should I buy before collection day?
For what to feed a russian blue, start with a carrier, litter tray, quality kitten food, bowls, a scratching post and a bed — our starter kit checklist has realistic prices.
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Independent guidance: The RSPCA offers independent cat care advice for Australian owners.
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